Anyone who has driven, or been driven, between junctions 36
and 40 of the M6 motorway would have noticed an impressive set of mountains on
the right, and these are the Howgills, awesome fells to view, especially with a
sprinkling of snow or frost: they are not huge heights, but they are impressive
hills, and once you are amid them you do get a sense of being between two
worlds: that of Yorkshire and that of the Lake District.
As we approached, the path grew steeper and we slowly passed
Cautley Spout, which is England’s highest waterfall, above ground. Once we passed
the waterfalls we turned left and along a ridge beside steep cliffs to the grassy
mound of Great Dummacks, whose summit bears one big stone and not much else. One
could go on to Calf from there, but we decided to leave that for another day
and took a very steep and grassy walk down the fellside back to the Pennine Way
and to the cars. Without a path, this seemed to take an age!
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